1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee Rear End For Sale: A Comprehensive Guide for Buyers and Enthusiasts
1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee Rear End For Sale: A Comprehensive Guide for Buyers and Enthusiasts jeeps.truckstrend.com
The 1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee (ZJ generation) holds a special place in the hearts of many automotive enthusiasts. Known for its blend of off-road capability and on-road comfort, these vehicles remain popular for daily driving, adventurous builds, and restoration projects. However, like any vehicle of its age, components can wear out or fail. Among the most critical and frequently sought-after parts is the 1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee Rear End. This comprehensive article will delve into everything you need to know about purchasing, evaluating, and installing a replacement rear end for your beloved ZJ.
Understanding the 1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee Rear End
1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee Rear End For Sale: A Comprehensive Guide for Buyers and Enthusiasts
When we talk about a "rear end" in the context of a vehicle, we’re referring to the complete rear axle assembly. For the 1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee, this typically includes the axle housing, the differential (which contains the gears that transfer power to the wheels), axle shafts, and often the brakes (rotors, calipers, pads). The ZJ Grand Cherokee came with two primary rear axle options:
- Dana 35 (Dana 35C/Dana 35c/Dana 35 Rear Axle): This was the standard rear axle for most 1998 ZJ models, particularly those with the 4.0L I6 engine. It’s identifiable by its oval-shaped differential cover and smaller size. While adequate for light duty, it’s notorious among off-roaders for its relatively weaker design, especially when larger tires or aggressive driving are involved.
- Dana 44a (Dana 44 Aluminum): This was an upgrade option, typically found in models with the 5.9L V8 engine or as part of certain tow packages. The "a" signifies an aluminum housing, which, while lighter, means it’s not as robust as the traditional cast-iron Dana 44 found in other Jeep models. It can be identified by its octagonal-shaped differential cover. It’s generally stronger than the Dana 35 but still has limitations compared to its cast-iron counterpart.
Understanding which axle type you have, or which you desire, is paramount when searching for a replacement.
Common Reasons to Seek a Replacement 1998 ZJ Rear End
Several factors can lead an owner to search for a "1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee Rear End For Sale":

- Damage or Failure: This is the most common reason. Bearings can wear out, gears can strip, the differential can fail, axle shafts can snap (especially on Dana 35s under stress), or the entire housing can be bent from impacts or severe off-roading. Rust can also severely compromise the structural integrity of the housing and its components.
- Upgrades: Many ZJ owners choose to swap out their weaker Dana 35 for a stronger Dana 44a, or even aftermarket axles, especially if they plan on serious off-roading, installing larger tires, or adding power.
- Gear Ratio Changes: To accommodate larger tire sizes, improve fuel economy, or enhance off-road crawling capabilities, owners might seek a rear end with a different gear ratio. It’s crucial to match the rear axle’s gear ratio to the front axle’s ratio in 4×4 vehicles.
- Restoration Projects: For enthusiasts restoring a classic 1998 ZJ, a complete, good-condition rear end can be a vital component to bring the vehicle back to its original glory.
Key Components and Variations to Consider
When evaluating a 1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee rear end for sale, pay close attention to these details:
- Axle Type (Dana 35 vs. Dana 44a): As discussed, this is the primary distinction. Ensure you’re getting the correct type or the desired upgrade.
- Gear Ratio: This is critical for 4×4 vehicles. Common ratios for the 1998 ZJ include 3.55, 3.73, 3.90, and 4.10. The ratio is usually stamped on the ring gear or a tag on the differential cover. Mismatching ratios between the front and rear axles in a 4×4 will lead to severe drivetrain damage.
- Differential Type:
- Open Differential: Standard, allows wheels to spin at different speeds, but can lead to a single wheel spinning on slippery surfaces.
- Limited-Slip Differential (LSD) / Traction-Lok: An optional feature designed to send power to the wheel with more traction. If present, inquire about its condition.
- Brakes: The 1998 ZJ came standard with rear disc brakes. Check the condition of the rotors, calipers, and pads. While these are replaceable, their condition can influence the overall value.
- Control Arm Mounts and Shock Mounts: Ensure these are intact, not bent, and free from excessive rust. These are crucial for proper suspension geometry.
- Overall Condition: Look for rust, fluid leaks around the differential cover or axle seals, bent axle tubes, or signs of impact damage. Grab the yoke and try to rotate it, feeling for excessive play or grinding sounds.

Where to Find a 1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee Rear End For Sale
Finding the right rear end requires knowing where to look:
- Salvage Yards/Junkyards: Often the most affordable option. You can physically inspect the part, but the history is usually unknown. Availability varies greatly.
- Online Marketplaces: Websites like eBay, Craigslist, and Facebook Marketplace offer a wide selection from individual sellers and smaller shops. Be cautious of scams, ask for detailed photos and videos, and verify seller reputation. Shipping costs can be significant.
- Specialty Jeep Part Retailers: Companies specializing in used or remanufactured Jeep parts often offer higher quality components, sometimes with a warranty. Prices will be higher, but you get more peace of mind.
- Jeep Forums and Enthusiast Groups: Online communities are excellent places to find parts from other enthusiasts who understand the value and specifics of ZJ components.
Important Considerations Before Buying
- Thorough Inspection: If possible, always inspect the rear end in person. Look for:
- Rust: Surface rust is common, but deep, structural rust is a red flag.
- Leaks: Oily residue around the differential cover, pinion seal, or axle seals indicates leaks.
- Bent Tubes: Sight down the axle tubes to check for straightness.
- Play: Grab the pinion yoke and try to twist it. A little play is normal, but excessive clunking indicates worn gears or bearings. Rotate the axle shafts if possible.
- Fluid Condition: If the seller allows, remove the fill plug and check the color and smell of the fluid. Burnt smell or metallic flakes are bad signs.
- Gear Ratio Verification: Re-emphasizing this: confirm the gear ratio. It’s typically stamped on a tag attached to the differential cover bolts or etched onto the ring gear itself. Do not rely solely on the seller’s word.
- Compatibility: Ensure the part is indeed from a 1998 ZJ Grand Cherokee or is a known compatible upgrade.
- Shipping and Logistics: Rear ends are heavy. Factor in shipping costs if buying remotely. Local pickup is often preferred.
- Seller Reputation: Buy from reputable sources. Check reviews for online sellers.
- Warranty: Ask if any warranty is offered, especially from specialty retailers.
Installation Tips and Potential Challenges
Installing a rear end can be a significant DIY project, but it’s manageable with the right tools and knowledge.
- DIY vs. Professional: If you’re comfortable with automotive mechanics, have access to proper lifting equipment (jack stands, floor jack), and can handle heavy components, a DIY installation is feasible. However, if you’re unsure, or if your vehicle has extensive rust, consider professional installation.
- Required Tools: You’ll need a good set of sockets and wrenches, a torque wrench, a pry bar, a fluid drain pan, brake line wrenches, and possibly a grinder for stubborn bolts.
- New Fluids and Gaskets: Always plan to replace the differential fluid, the differential cover gasket, and potentially the axle seals and pinion seal. Use the correct type and weight of gear oil for your differential.
- Brake System: You’ll need to disconnect and reconnect the brake lines. Be prepared to bleed the entire rear brake system (or even the whole system) afterward.
- Potential Challenges: Rusted or seized bolts, particularly on the control arms and shock mounts, can be a major headache. Be patient, use penetrating oil, and have a good impact wrench handy. Aligning the new axle can also be tricky.
Price Table: 1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee Rear End For Sale
| Axle Type | Condition | Estimated Price Range (USD) | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| Dana 35 | Used (Poor) | $150 – $300 | May have high mileage, visible rust, potential leaks. Often sold "as-is." Good for parts or if a full rebuild is planned. |
| Dana 35 | Used (Good) | $300 – $600 | Inspected, generally functional, minimal leaks, typical wear. Ideal for direct replacement on a daily driver. |
| Dana 35 | Remanufactured | $800 – $1200+ | Professionally rebuilt with new bearings, seals, and often new gears. Comes with a warranty. |
| Dana 44a | Used (Poor) | $250 – $400 | Similar to Dana 35 poor condition, but for the stronger Dana 44a. |
| Dana 44a | Used (Good) | $400 – $800 | Functional, good for a direct swap or mild upgrade. Check carefully for cracks in the aluminum housing. |
| Dana 44a | Remanufactured | $1000 – $1600+ | Professionally rebuilt, new internals, warranty. Best option for reliability and performance from a stock 44a. |
| Both Types | Bare Housing | $100 – $300 | Axle housing only, no differential, shafts, or brakes. Good for custom builds or if you have all other components. |
| Shipping Costs | N/A | $150 – $400+ | Varies significantly based on distance and carrier. Always get a freight quote. |
Note: Prices are estimates and can vary based on location, seller, specific gear ratio, inclusion of brakes, and overall demand.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
Q1: What’s the main difference between a Dana 35 and a Dana 44a for my 1998 ZJ?
A1: The Dana 35 is weaker, typically found in 4.0L models, and has an oval cover. The Dana 44a is stronger, usually in 5.9L models, has an octagonal aluminum cover, but isn’t as robust as a cast-iron Dana 44.
Q2: How can I tell what gear ratio my current ZJ has?
A2: Look for a metal tag attached to the differential cover bolts; the ratio is usually stamped there (e.g., 3.73). If no tag, you can count the ring and pinion gear teeth after opening the differential, or use an online VIN decoder if available.
Q3: Can I swap a Dana 44a into my 1998 ZJ that originally had a Dana 35?
A3: Yes, it’s a common and relatively straightforward swap as the mounting points are the same. However, you MUST ensure the gear ratio of the new Dana 44a matches your front axle’s gear ratio if your ZJ is 4×4.
Q4: What should I definitely inspect on a used rear end before buying?
A4: Check for excessive rust, fluid leaks (pinion seal, axle seals, differential cover), bent axle tubes, play in the pinion yoke (clunking), and the condition of the brake components. Confirm the gear ratio.
Q5: Do I need to replace anything else when swapping a rear end?
A5: It’s highly recommended to replace the differential fluid, differential cover gasket, and possibly axle seals and the pinion seal. Consider new brake pads and rotors if the existing ones are worn.
Q6: Is it difficult to install a 1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee rear end myself?
A6: It’s a moderately challenging job. You’ll need proper tools, lifting equipment, and a basic understanding of automotive mechanics. The weight of the axle and dealing with rusted bolts can be challenging. If unsure, professional installation is advised.
Conclusion
The 1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee rear end is a vital component that, when in good condition, ensures the reliable and safe operation of your vehicle. Whether you’re replacing a failed unit, upgrading for enhanced performance, or restoring a classic ZJ, understanding the nuances of these axles – from identifying the correct type and gear ratio to thoroughly inspecting its condition – is crucial. By following the advice in this guide, you can confidently navigate the market for a "1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee Rear End For Sale," ensuring your ZJ continues to conquer roads and trails for years to come.
