1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee Rear End For Sale: Your Comprehensive Guide

1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee Rear End For Sale: Your Comprehensive Guide jeeps.truckstrend.com

The 1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee (ZJ generation) holds a special place in the hearts of many SUV enthusiasts. Known for its rugged capability, comfortable ride, and timeless design, it remains a popular choice for daily driving, off-roading, and project builds. However, like any vehicle, components can wear out or sustain damage, leading owners to seek replacements. One such critical component is the rear end, a term commonly used to refer to the entire rear axle assembly, including the differential, axle shafts, and housing.

Finding a "1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee Rear End For Sale" can be a necessity for a variety of reasons: a worn-out differential, bent axle housing from an impact, damaged axle shafts, or even an upgrade project. This comprehensive guide aims to arm you with all the knowledge you need to navigate the market, make an informed purchase, and potentially tackle the replacement process.

1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee Rear End For Sale: Your Comprehensive Guide

Understanding the 1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee Rear Axle Landscape

Before diving into the buying process, it’s crucial to understand the different rear axle types that came standard in the 1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee. Knowing which one you have, or which one you want, is the first step towards a successful purchase.

The 1998 ZJ Grand Cherokee primarily utilized three different rear axle types:

1. Dana 35 (D35 or D35c): This was the most common rear axle, found in many 4.0L I6 models. While adequate for light duty, it’s widely considered the weakest of the three, especially when subjected to aggressive off-roading or larger tires. It came in both C-clip and non-C-clip versions, with the C-clip being more prevalent.
2. Chrysler 8.25 (C8.25): A more robust option, often found behind the 4.0L I6 engine, particularly in models equipped with the Up Country suspension package or towing packages. It’s identifiable by its flat bottom and 10-bolt cover. This axle is generally preferred over the Dana 35 for its strength and reliability.
3. Dana 44a (D44a or D44 aluminum): This aluminum-bodied Dana 44 was exclusively paired with the 5.2L V8 and 5.9L V8 engines. While it carries the "Dana 44" name, its aluminum housing makes it less desirable for extreme off-roading compared to the traditional cast-iron Dana 44 found in earlier Jeeps, due to its susceptibility to bending or cracking under heavy stress. However, it’s still stronger than the Dana 35 for street use and moderate trails.

Gear Ratios: All these axles were available with various gear ratios, commonly 3.55, 3.73, or 3.90. It is absolutely critical that the gear ratio of your replacement rear end matches the gear ratio of your front differential (if your Jeep is 4WD). Mismatched ratios will lead to severe drivetrain damage when engaged in 4WD. The ratio is usually found on a tag on the differential cover or by rotating the wheels and counting driveshaft rotations.

Why Purchase a Used 1998 ZJ Rear End?

Opting for a used rear end assembly for your 1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee offers several compelling advantages:

• Cost-Effectiveness: A new rear axle assembly or a complete professional rebuild can be prohibitively expensive. A good used unit from a salvage yard or private seller is significantly more affordable.



• Availability: Due to the ZJ’s popularity and the sheer number produced, finding a used rear end is relatively easy compared to parts for rarer vehicles.
• Direct Replacement: A used OEM rear end ensures perfect fitment, minimizing installation headaches often associated with aftermarket components.
• Upgrade Potential: For owners with the weaker Dana 35, sourcing a stronger Chrysler 8.25 or even a Dana 44a from a donor ZJ is a common and relatively straightforward upgrade path.
• Restoration and Project Vehicles: For those restoring a classic ZJ or building an off-road rig, a complete used rear end provides a solid foundation.

Key Components of a Complete Rear End Assembly

When you look for a "1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee Rear End For Sale," you’re typically looking for a complete assembly. This generally includes:

• Axle Housing: The main structural component that encloses the differential and axle shafts.
• Differential Assembly: Contains the ring and pinion gears, carrier, and either an open differential, limited-slip differential (LSD), or locker.
• Axle Shafts: The shafts that transmit power from the differential to the wheels.
• Brake Components: Often includes the brake backing plates, calipers, rotors, and sometimes even the parking brake assembly.
• Mounting Points: All the necessary brackets for control arms, track bar, shock absorbers, and sway bar.

Where to Find a 1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee Rear End For Sale

Locating the right rear end requires knowing where to look:

1. Local Salvage Yards/Junkyards: Often the first stop. You can physically inspect the part, and sometimes negotiate prices. Many salvage yards are now computerized and can check inventory across their network.
2. Online Salvage Yard Databases: Websites like Car-Part.com allow you to search for specific parts from thousands of salvage yards across North America. This is excellent for finding units that might be far away but can be shipped.
3. Online Marketplaces:
   • eBay: A vast selection, often with photos and detailed descriptions. Be mindful of shipping costs.
   • Craigslist/Facebook Marketplace: Great for local finds, allowing for in-person inspection and avoiding shipping fees. Always exercise caution and meet in safe, public places.
4. Jeep Forums and Enthusiast Groups: Dedicated Jeep Grand Cherokee forums (e.g., JeepForum.com, NAXJA.org) and Facebook groups are excellent resources. Members often sell parts they’ve pulled from donor vehicles or upgrades. You might find knowledgeable sellers here who can provide specific details.
5. Specialized Part Recyclers: Some businesses specialize in recycling and reselling specific vehicle parts, like drivetrain components. They often offer warranties.

Crucial Considerations Before Buying

Purchasing a used rear end assembly can save you money, but it comes with inherent risks. Thorough due diligence is paramount.

• Axle Type and Gear Ratio Verification: Reiterate this! Double-check the axle type (Dana 35, Chrysler 8.25, Dana 44a) and, most importantly, the gear ratio. If your Jeep is 4WD, the front and rear ratios MUST match.
• Condition Inspection:
  • Rust: Surface rust is common and generally not an issue, but severe, pitting rust can compromise structural integrity.
  • Leaks: Check around the differential cover, pinion seal, and axle tube ends for signs of fluid leaks. This indicates worn seals or a damaged housing.
  • Bent Housing: A bent housing is a deal-breaker. Look down the axle tubes from one end to the other (if possible) or check if the flange where the brake components mount is perfectly perpendicular to the tube.
  • Mounting Points: Inspect all control arm, track bar, shock, and sway bar mounts for bends, cracks, or excessive corrosion.
  • Brake Components: While the calipers and rotors might be worn, ensure the backing plates are intact and not severely rusted.
  • Axle Shafts: Check the splines on the ends of the shafts for damage or wear.
• Donor Vehicle Information: If possible, ask about the donor vehicle’s mileage and accident history. A low-mileage unit from a rear-end collision might be perfect, while one from a high-mileage, heavily abused vehicle might be trouble.
• Completeness: Confirm exactly what is included. Is it just the bare housing and differential, or does it come with axle shafts, brakes, and all mounting brackets?
• Warranty/Return Policy: Salvage yards often offer a limited warranty (e.g., 30-90 days), which provides some peace of mind. Private sales typically offer no warranty.
• Shipping Costs: A rear end assembly is heavy. Get an accurate shipping quote before committing, as it can significantly impact the total cost.
• Limited-Slip Differential (LSD) vs. Open Differential: Some ZJs came with an optional limited-slip differential (Trac-Lok). If you want this feature, confirm the unit you’re buying has it. It can usually be identified by a tag on the differential cover or by rotating one wheel and seeing if the other turns in the same direction (LSD) or opposite direction (open).

Installation Tips and Potential Challenges

Replacing a rear end can be a significant DIY project, but it’s manageable with the right tools and preparation.

• Safety First: Always use sturdy jack stands on a level surface. Never rely solely on a jack.
• Proper Tools: You’ll need a good set of sockets and wrenches, a breaker bar, a torque wrench, a fluid drain pan, and possibly an angle grinder for rusted bolts. A transmission jack or strong floor jack can greatly assist with maneuvering the heavy assembly.
• Fluid Change: Even if the seller says the fluid is good, it’s highly recommended to drain and refill with fresh gear oil (and friction modifier if it’s an LSD) before or immediately after installation.
• Brake Bleeding: After reconnecting brake lines, you’ll need to bleed the entire rear brake system.
• Alignment: After installation, it’s a good idea to get a professional alignment, especially if control arm bushings were replaced or if you notice any changes in handling.
• Potential Challenges: Rusted bolts are common, requiring patience, penetrating oil, and sometimes heat or cutting. Stripped threads are another possibility. Be prepared for things to take longer than expected.
• Driveshaft and U-Joints: Inspect the rear driveshaft and U-joints while the axle is out. It’s an opportune time to replace worn components.

Maximizing Value: Your Inspection Checklist

When inspecting a potential 1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee Rear End For Sale, use this checklist:

• Overall Visual: Look for obvious signs of impact damage, severe rust, or previous repairs.
• Fluid Leaks: Check pinion seal, axle tube seals, and differential cover gasket for oil residue.
• Differential Cover: Is it severely dented or rusted?
• Ring and Pinion Play: With the driveshaft flange accessible, try to rotate it back and forth. A small amount of play is normal, but excessive clunking indicates worn gears or bearings.
• Axle Shafts: Are they straight? Do the splines look good?
• Brakes: Are the rotors severely grooved? Are the calipers seized? (These are replaceable, but factor in cost).
• Mounting Brackets: Inspect welds and condition of all control arm, track bar, and shock mounts. Ensure they are not bent or cracked.
• Bearing Noise (if possible): If the unit is still in a vehicle, listen for humming or grinding noises during rotation.

Estimated Price Table: 1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee Rear End For Sale

Please Note: Prices are highly variable based on condition, location, seller, demand, and completeness of the assembly. These are rough estimates for a used unit.

Axle Type	Condition Category	Estimated Price Range (USD)	Notes
Dana 35 (D35c)	Good Used	$150 – $400	Most common and least expensive. Often pulled from 4.0L models. Check for C-clip vs. non-C-clip, and ensure no major leaks or excessive play. Suitable for light-duty replacement.
	Rebuilt/Certified	$500 – $800+	Rebuilt units are rare for D35 but would include new bearings, seals, and potentially gears. Often comes with a warranty.
Chrysler 8.25	Good Used	$300 – $700	More desirable for strength. Found in some 4.0L models. Check for common leak spots (pinion seal, differential cover). Great for a D35 upgrade.
	Rebuilt/Certified	$800 – $1200+	Includes new bearings, seals, and potential gear set replacement. Often comes with a warranty.
Dana 44a (D44a)	Good Used	$400 – $800	Exclusively with V8 models. Aluminum housing. Inspect for cracks or bending, especially if from a donor with severe rear impact. Stronger than D35 for street use, but less preferred for heavy off-roading than traditional D44.
	Rebuilt/Certified	$1000 – $1500+	Rebuilt units address wear components. Ensure aluminum housing integrity is verified.
Shipping Costs	N/A	$150 – $400+	Due to weight and size, freight shipping is required for non-local purchases. Always get a specific quote. Prices vary by distance and carrier.
Labor (Pro Install)	N/A	$400 – $800+	If you’re not doing it yourself, factor in professional installation. This typically includes removal of old, installation of new, fluid fill, and brake bleeding.

Conclusion

The "1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee Rear End For Sale" market is robust, offering viable solutions for repairs, replacements, and upgrades. By understanding the different axle types, knowing where to search, and diligently inspecting potential purchases, you can secure a reliable component for your beloved ZJ. Whether you’re getting your Grand Cherokee back on the road or enhancing its capabilities, a well-chosen used rear end can provide excellent value and extend the life of your classic Jeep for years to come. Remember, patience and thorough research are your best allies in this process.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)

Q1: What’s the main difference between a Dana 35 and a Chrysler 8.25 axle in a 1998 ZJ?
A1: The Chrysler 8.25 is significantly stronger and more durable than the Dana 35. It has a larger ring gear and thicker axle tubes. The Dana 35 is known for its weaker design, especially under stress from larger tires or aggressive driving.

Q2: How do I identify my gear ratio?
A2: The gear ratio is typically stamped on a metal tag attached to one of the differential cover bolts. If the tag is missing, you can jack up the rear of the vehicle, put the transmission in neutral, and rotate one wheel exactly two full turns while counting the rotations of the driveshaft. If the driveshaft spins approximately 3.55 times, you have 3.55 gears, and so on.

Q3: Can I swap a different axle type into my 1998 Grand Cherokee? For example, a Chrysler 8.25 in place of a Dana 35?
A3: Yes, swapping a Chrysler 8.25 into a ZJ that originally had a Dana 35 is a very common and popular upgrade. The mounting points are identical, making it a direct bolt-in replacement. Swapping a Dana 44a is also a direct bolt-in for V8 models, but for I6 models, it would require a V8 driveshaft as well.

Q4: What tools will I need to replace the rear end assembly?
A4: You’ll need a comprehensive socket and wrench set (metric and possibly standard), a breaker bar, torque wrench, jack stands, floor jack (or transmission jack), fluid drain pan, penetrating oil, possibly a grinder/cut-off wheel for seized bolts, and brake bleeding tools.

Q5: Is it worth rebuilding my old axle or buying a used one?
A5: It depends on the damage and your budget. If only a minor component like a seal or bearing is bad, a rebuild might be cheaper. However, if the housing is bent, the differential gears are severely damaged, or you’re looking for an upgrade (e.g., from Dana 35 to Chrysler 8.25), buying a good used assembly is often more cost-effective and less labor-intensive than a full rebuild.

Q6: What does "complete" rear end mean when it’s for sale?
A6: A "complete" rear end generally means the entire axle housing, differential assembly (with ring and pinion gears), axle shafts, and brake backing plates. It often includes the brake calipers and rotors, and sometimes even the parking brake cables. Always clarify with the seller exactly what is included.