1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee Rear End For Sale: Your Comprehensive Guide to Replacement, Upgrade, and Maintenance
1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee Rear End For Sale: Your Comprehensive Guide to Replacement, Upgrade, and Maintenance jeeps.truckstrend.com
The 1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee (ZJ generation) holds a special place in the hearts of off-road enthusiasts and daily drivers alike. Known for its robust build, capable 4×4 systems, and comfortable interior, the ZJ remains a popular choice for those seeking a balance of utility and classic Jeep charm. However, like any vehicle of its age, components can wear out or become damaged. One critical assembly that often requires attention, whether due to age, accident, or the desire for an upgrade, is the rear end.
When we talk about a "rear end" in the context of a vehicle, particularly a 1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee, we are referring to the entire rear axle assembly. This comprehensive unit includes the differential housing, differential (which contains the gears that distribute power to the wheels), axle shafts, and often the brakes (rotors, calipers, lines) attached to it. It is a fundamental component of the vehicle’s drivetrain, responsible for transferring power from the driveshaft to the rear wheels, and its integrity is paramount for proper vehicle function, safety, and especially for maintaining the legendary off-road prowess of a Grand Cherokee. Finding a "1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee Rear End For Sale" signifies a search for a complete, pre-assembled, and often used unit to replace a damaged one, upgrade an existing setup, or even to use in a custom project. This guide will delve into everything you need to know about acquiring, assessing, and installing a rear end for your beloved ZJ.
1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee Rear End For Sale: Your Comprehensive Guide to Replacement, Upgrade, and Maintenance
Understanding the 1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee Rear End (ZJ Axle Configurations)
The 1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee was offered with several rear axle configurations, which is crucial to understand when searching for a replacement or upgrade. Knowing these types is the first step in ensuring compatibility and meeting your performance needs.
- Dana 35 (D35): This was the most common rear axle found in base model and some V6 ZJs. It’s identifiable by its oval-shaped differential cover. While adequate for light duty and stock applications, the Dana 35 is generally considered the weakest of the ZJ axles and is prone to failure under heavy off-road use, with larger tires, or aggressive driving.
- Chrysler 8.25 (C8.25): Often found in V8 models and some I6 Grand Cherokees, the Chrysler 8.25 is a more robust axle than the Dana 35. It’s recognizable by its octagonal differential cover. It’s a popular upgrade for those with a Dana 35, offering increased strength and reliability for moderate off-roading.
- Dana 44a (D44a): This aluminum-housed Dana 44 variant was typically equipped in higher-trim V8 ZJs, particularly those with the Up-Country suspension package or towing packages. It’s identifiable by its distinct, somewhat rounded differential cover and the aluminum housing. While it shares the "44" designation with the legendary Dana 44, its aluminum housing makes it less desirable for extreme off-road abuse compared to a traditional steel Dana 44, but it is still significantly stronger than the Dana 35.
Beyond the axle type, other critical aspects of the rear end include:

- Gear Ratio: This determines how many times the driveshaft spins for each rotation of the wheels. Common ratios for the ZJ include 3.55, 3.73, and 3.90. Matching your existing front axle gear ratio is critical for 4×4 vehicles to prevent drivetrain binding and damage.
- Limited-Slip Differential (LSD) or Open Differential: Some ZJs came with an optional limited-slip differential (often called "Trac-Lok" by Jeep), which helps distribute power to both wheels for better traction. An open differential sends power to the wheel with the least resistance.
- Brakes: The rear end assembly will typically include the brake rotors, calipers, and sometimes the parking brake components.

Why Purchase a Used 1998 ZJ Rear End?
There are several compelling reasons why an individual might seek out a "1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee Rear End For Sale" rather than opting for new parts or a complete vehicle:
- Cost-Effectiveness: A complete used rear end assembly is almost always significantly cheaper than buying all the individual components new, or even a remanufactured unit. This is especially true for an older vehicle like the ZJ where the cost of new parts can quickly exceed the vehicle’s value.
- Replacement for Damage: Accidents, severe off-road impacts, or even extensive rust can bend, crack, or compromise the integrity of the original axle housing or its internal components. A used replacement is often the most straightforward solution.
- Upgrade Potential: Many ZJ owners with a weaker Dana 35 rear axle will actively seek a used Chrysler 8.25 or Dana 44a to upgrade their vehicle’s strength and durability, especially when installing larger tires or engaging in more challenging off-roading.
- Specific Gearing Needs: If an owner has changed tire sizes significantly or swapped an engine, they might need a different gear ratio to optimize performance and fuel economy. Finding a complete used axle with the desired ratio can be more economical than re-gearing an existing one.
- Parts Availability: For an older vehicle, finding individual new components can sometimes be challenging or require extensive searching. A complete used assembly often simplifies the repair process.

Key Considerations Before Buying
Purchasing a used rear end requires careful consideration to ensure you get a compatible and functional unit.
- Axle Type and Strength: Reconfirm whether you need a Dana 35, Chrysler 8.25, or Dana 44a. If upgrading, ensure your front axle is compatible or plan to upgrade both.
- Gear Ratio Match: This is non-negotiable for 4×4 vehicles. The rear axle’s gear ratio must match the front axle’s gear ratio. You can usually find the ratio stamped on a tag attached to the differential cover bolts or by decoding your VIN (though VIN decoders are less reliable for axle specifics). If in doubt, spin the driveshaft and count wheel rotations.
- Limited-Slip Differential (LSD) or Open Diff: Decide if you want an LSD or if an open differential is sufficient for your needs. Confirm what the seller is offering.
- Condition Assessment (Crucial!):
- Fluid Leaks: Check for oil residue around the pinion seal (where the driveshaft connects), axle seals (where axle shafts exit the housing), and differential cover gasket.
- Bent Housing/Tubes: Visually inspect the axle tubes and housing for any signs of bending or damage from impacts.
- Pinion and Wheel Bearing Play: Try to wiggle the input flange (where the driveshaft connects) and the axle shafts at the wheels. Excessive play indicates worn bearings.
- Brake Condition: While replaceable, note the condition of rotors, calipers, and brake lines. Factor in replacement costs if they are worn or rusted.
- Mounting Points: Inspect all control arm mounts, shock mounts, and sway bar mounts for bends, cracks, or excessive rust.
- Rust Severity: Surface rust is common and generally not an issue, but deep, flaky rust that compromises the structural integrity of the housing or mounts should be a red flag.
- Donor Vehicle Information: Ask the seller for the year, model, and mileage of the vehicle the rear end came from. This can give you an idea of its history.
- Seller Reputation: If buying online, check seller reviews. If buying in person, trust your instincts.
The Buying Process: Where and How to Find Your Rear End
Finding a "1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee Rear End For Sale" can involve a few different avenues:
- Local Salvage Yards/Junkyards:
- Pros: You can physically inspect the unit before purchase, no shipping costs, immediate availability. Prices are often negotiable.
- Cons: Inventory can be hit or miss, and parts are sold "as-is" with limited warranties.
- Online Marketplaces (eBay, Craigslist, Facebook Marketplace):
- Pros: Wider selection, competitive pricing, potential to find exactly what you need.
- Cons: Shipping costs can be substantial, reliance on seller’s description and photos, less opportunity for physical inspection, higher risk of misrepresentation.
- Specialized Jeep Parts Dealers/Salvage Yards:
- Pros: Often higher quality, tested parts, knowledgeable staff, potential for warranties.
- Cons: Typically higher prices than a general junkyard.
- Jeep Forums and Online Communities:
- Pros: Direct sales from enthusiasts who often know their parts well. Good community support.
- Cons: Limited selection, local pickup often preferred.
What to Ask the Seller:
- What year and model Jeep did this come from?
- What is the gear ratio? (Ask for a picture of the axle tag if possible)
- Is it an open or limited-slip differential?
- Are there any known issues (leaks, noises, damage)?
- Are the brakes included and what is their condition?
- Can you provide more detailed photos or a video?
- What are the shipping options and costs?
Installation and Post-Purchase Tips
Once you’ve secured your 1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee rear end, installation is the next step.
- Professional Installation vs. DIY: If you’re comfortable with automotive mechanics, have the right tools (jack stands, floor jack, torque wrench, fluid drain pan, basic hand tools), and a repair manual, a DIY installation is feasible. However, if unsure, or for critical safety components like brakes, professional installation is highly recommended.
- Safety First: Always use jack stands, block wheels, and wear appropriate safety gear.
- Fluid Replacement: Even if the seller claims the fluid is new, always drain and refill the differential with fresh, correct-spec gear oil (and friction modifier if it’s an LSD).
- Brake Inspection/Replacement: It’s highly advisable to replace brake pads and rotors while the axle is out or easily accessible. Inspect and potentially replace brake lines and bleed the system thoroughly.
- Control Arm Bushings: Inspect the bushings on the control arms (upper and lower) that connect to the axle. These are common wear items and are easier to replace when the axle is being worked on.
- Pinion Angle Check: If you have a lifted ZJ or are modifying the suspension, check and adjust the pinion angle to prevent driveshaft vibrations.
- Test Drive: After installation, perform a careful test drive. Listen for unusual noises (whining, clunking), check for leaks, and ensure brakes function correctly.
Potential Challenges and Solutions
- Finding the Right Gearing: This can be the most challenging aspect. Be patient and widen your search radius. Consider that if you find the perfect axle type but wrong gears, you might still save money by re-gearing that axle compared to buying a new one.
- High Shipping Costs: Rear ends are heavy and bulky. Obtain multiple shipping quotes. Consider freight companies. Sometimes, driving to pick up a unit locally, even if it’s a few hours away, can be cheaper than shipping.
- Damaged or Misrepresented Parts: Mitigate this by asking detailed questions, requesting many photos/videos, and using platforms with buyer protection. If picking up in person, perform a thorough inspection on the spot.
- Unforeseen Additional Costs: Budget for new differential fluid, brake components (pads, rotors, possibly calipers), axle seals, and potentially new control arm bushings or U-joints for the driveshaft.
Price Table: 1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee Rear End (Estimated Ranges)
Please note: These prices are estimates and can vary wildly based on condition, mileage, location, seller, and market demand. Always verify with the seller.
| Axle Type | Condition | Source | Estimated Price Range (USD) | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Dana 35 | Good Used (minor surface rust, no leaks) | Local Junkyard | $150 – $350 | Most common, least desirable for upgrades. Likely needs fluid change, brake service. |
| Dana 35 | Excellent Used (low mileage, clean) | Online Marketplace / Private Seller | $300 – $500 | Rare to find in "excellent" condition. Usually comes from a low-mileage donor. |
| Chrysler 8.25 | Good Used (minor surface rust, no leaks) | Local Junkyard | $250 – $550 | Popular upgrade. Check for straightness. |
| Chrysler 8.25 | Excellent Used (low mileage, clean) | Specialized Salvage / Online Dealer | $500 – $800 | Sought after. May include warranty from specialized dealer. |
| Dana 44a | Good Used (minor surface rust, no leaks) | Local Junkyard | $300 – $650 | Aluminum housing makes it lighter but potentially less robust for extreme rock crawling than a steel D44. |
| Dana 44a | Excellent Used (low mileage, clean) | Specialized Salvage / Online Dealer | $600 – $1000+ | Premium option for ZJ owners. Verify condition of aluminum housing carefully. |
| Any Type | "As-Is" / Core / Damaged | Local Junkyard / Private Seller | $50 – $200 | For parts, rebuild, or if you only need the housing. Expect significant work or additional parts. |
| Shipping Costs | (Not included in above prices) | Freight (lower 48 states) | $200 – $500+ | Varies significantly by distance, weight, and freight carrier. Always get a specific quote. Local pickup is almost always cheaper. |
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
Q1: What’s the main difference between Dana 35, Dana 44a, and Chrysler 8.25 axles?
A1: The primary differences are strength and design. The Dana 35 is the weakest, identifiable by its oval cover. The Chrysler 8.25 is stronger, with an octagonal cover. The Dana 44a is also strong but has an aluminum housing (distinct cover shape), making it lighter but potentially less durable for severe impacts than a steel axle.
Q2: How do I find my current gear ratio?
A2: Look for a metal tag attached to the differential cover bolts; the ratio is usually stamped there (e.g., 3.73). If no tag, you can decode your VIN (though less reliable for specific axle info) or manually rotate the driveshaft and count wheel rotations (mark the driveshaft and tire, then count driveshaft rotations for one tire rotation; this will give you an approximate ratio).
Q3: Can I put a rear end from a different year Grand Cherokee into my 1998 ZJ?
A3: Generally, rear ends from 1993-1998 ZJ Grand Cherokees are physically interchangeable. However, always confirm the axle type, gear ratio, and ensure all mounting points (control arms, shocks) align. Later WJ (1999-2004) Grand Cherokee axles are not a direct bolt-in due to different suspension geometry.
Q4: What tools do I need for a DIY rear end installation?
A4: Essential tools include a sturdy floor jack, at least two high-quality jack stands, a torque wrench, sockets/wrenches for various bolt sizes (especially for control arms and driveshaft), a fluid drain pan, a breaker bar, and potentially a pry bar. Brake line wrenches and a brake bleeder kit will also be needed.
Q5: Is it worth rebuilding my old rear end instead of buying used?
A5: It depends on the damage. If the axle housing is bent, cracked, or severely rusted, replacing the entire unit is usually more practical and cost-effective than attempting to repair the housing. If only the internal components (gears, bearings, LSD) are worn, rebuilding can be a viable option, especially if you have a desirable axle type (like a C8.25 or D44a).
Q6: How much does shipping usually cost for a rear end?
A6: Shipping a complete rear end via freight can range from $200 to over $500, depending on the distance, weight, and carrier. Always get a specific shipping quote before committing to an online purchase. Local pickup can save you a significant amount.
Conclusion
Finding a "1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee Rear End For Sale" can be a fantastic solution for repairing, maintaining, or upgrading your classic ZJ. By understanding the different axle types, meticulously assessing the condition of potential units, and following a smart buying process, you can secure a quality component that will extend the life and enhance the capabilities of your Grand Cherokee. While challenges like finding the right gear ratio or managing shipping costs exist, the satisfaction of restoring your ZJ’s integrity and performance is well worth the effort. With careful research and a bit of patience, your 1998 Grand Cherokee can continue to tackle trails and roads with confidence for years to come.
