2000 Jeep Cherokee For Sale – Craigslist: Unearthing a Classic on a Budget
2000 Jeep Cherokee For Sale – Craigslist: Unearthing a Classic on a Budget jeeps.truckstrend.com
The 2000 Jeep Cherokee, affectionately known as the XJ, holds a legendary status among automotive enthusiasts, off-roaders, and even daily drivers seeking a no-nonsense, capable, and surprisingly versatile vehicle. Its unibody construction, robust 4.0-liter inline-six engine, and timeless design have cemented its place as one of the most iconic SUVs ever produced. While dealerships and used car lots might offer more structured buying experiences, for many, the thrill of the hunt for a classic XJ leads directly to the digital classifieds of Craigslist. This platform, with its direct-to-seller approach, often provides the best opportunities to find these sought-after machines at an accessible price point, making the dream of XJ ownership a tangible reality.
However, navigating Craigslist for a 2000 Jeep Cherokee isn’t merely about typing in "Jeep XJ for sale" and hitting enter. It’s an adventure requiring knowledge, patience, and a keen eye for detail. This comprehensive guide will arm you with the insights needed to successfully find, evaluate, and purchase your next classic 2000 Jeep Cherokee from Craigslist, transforming a potential gamble into a rewarding acquisition.
2000 Jeep Cherokee For Sale – Craigslist: Unearthing a Classic on a Budget
Why the 2000 Jeep Cherokee (XJ) Remains a Legend
Before diving into the Craigslist specifics, it’s crucial to understand why the 2000 Jeep Cherokee continues to command such a loyal following. Produced from 1984 to 2001, the XJ generation redefined the SUV segment, blending the utility of a station wagon with the ruggedness of a traditional Jeep.
- Robust Powertrain: The star of the show is undoubtedly the 4.0-liter AMC inline-six engine. Known for its legendary durability, torque, and relative simplicity, it’s a workhorse that, with proper maintenance, can easily last for hundreds of thousands of miles. The accompanying Aisin-Warner AW4 automatic transmission is equally robust and reliable.
- Unmatched Off-Road Capability: Despite its unibody construction (a departure from traditional body-on-frame SUVs), the XJ boasts impressive articulation, solid axles (Dana 30 front, Dana 35 or Chrysler 8.25 rear), and excellent ground clearance. Its compact size makes it agile on trails where larger vehicles struggle.
- Simplicity and Modifiability: The XJ is relatively easy to work on, making it a favorite for DIY mechanics and customizers. A vast aftermarket supports everything from lift kits and heavy-duty bumpers to engine upgrades, allowing owners to tailor their XJ to their specific needs, whether it’s a hardcore rock crawler or a comfortable daily driver.
- Timeless Design: Its boxy, purposeful aesthetics have aged gracefully, avoiding the "dated" look of many contemporaries. It’s a design that simply works.
The 2000 model year, being one of the final production years, benefits from late-model refinements, although it’s important to note a specific issue with the 0331 cylinder head on some 2000-2001 4.0L engines, which can be prone to cracking. We’ll address this in detail later.
Navigating Craigslist: Your Gateway to an XJ
Craigslist is a double-edged sword when it comes to buying a used vehicle. Its simplicity and directness are its greatest strengths, but they also contribute to its pitfalls.
Benefits of Craigslist:
- Direct Seller Contact: You’re dealing directly with the owner, allowing for negotiation and getting specific answers about the vehicle’s history.
- Potentially Lower Prices: Without dealership overhead, private sellers often list vehicles at more competitive prices.
- Local Finds: It’s ideal for finding vehicles within your immediate area, making inspections and test drives convenient.
- Hidden Gems: Sometimes, you can stumble upon a meticulously maintained or uniquely modified XJ that wouldn’t be found elsewhere.

Challenges and Risks:
- "As-Is" Sales: Most private sales are "as-is," meaning no warranty or guarantees.
- Scams and Misrepresentation: Be wary of vague ads, incredibly low prices for pristine vehicles, or sellers who refuse to meet in person.
- Lack of Consumer Protection: Unlike dealerships, there’s no regulatory body overseeing private transactions on Craigslist.
- Limited Information: Ads can be sparse, requiring you to ask many questions.
The Search Strategy: Finding Your 2000 XJ on Craigslist
A successful Craigslist search starts with smart keyword usage and diligent initial screening.
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Effective Search Terms: Start broad, then narrow down.
- "Jeep Cherokee"
- "Jeep XJ"
- "2000 Jeep"
- "Cherokee 4.0L"
- "Jeep 4×4" (if 4WD is a must)
- Try variations like "lifted Jeep Cherokee" or "stock Jeep XJ."
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Filtering and Location:
- Set your maximum distance from your location. A wider radius increases options but means more travel for inspections.
- Filter by year (2000).
- Set a realistic price range. Good XJs don’t often come dirt cheap anymore.
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Initial Screening of Ads (Red Flags vs. Green Flags):
- Red Flags:
- Vague descriptions: "Runs good," "needs nothing," but offers no details.
- Few or poor-quality photos: Blurry, dark, or only showing one angle.
- Generic photos: Stock images or clearly not the actual vehicle.
- Unrealistic price: Too low for the claimed condition.
- Seller pushing for quick sale/cash only without meeting.
- No contact number, only email (and slow responses).
- Green Flags:
- Detailed descriptions: Listing mileage, known issues, recent maintenance, trim level, modifications.
- Multiple, clear photos: Showing interior, exterior (all angles), engine bay, undercarriage.
- Mention of maintenance records.
- Seller seems knowledgeable and willing to answer questions.
- Reasonable price for condition.
- Red Flags:
What to Look For: A Pre-Purchase Checklist for the 2000 XJ
Once an ad piques your interest, it’s time to dig deeper. A thorough inspection is paramount for an older vehicle like the XJ.
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The Engine (4.0L I6):
- 0331 Cylinder Head: This is critical for 2000-2001 models. Inspect the passenger side of the cylinder head between cylinders 3 and 4 for fine cracks, especially after the engine warms up. A milky substance in the oil or coolant reservoir, or persistent overheating, can indicate a cracked head. If replaced, ask for documentation.
- Oil Leaks: Common areas include the rear main seal (back of the engine, dripping onto the bell housing), valve cover gasket, and oil filter adapter. Minor seeps are common, but significant drips are a concern.
- Cooling System: Check the radiator, hoses, and water pump for leaks. Ensure the coolant is clean (not rusty or sludgy). Overheating is the enemy of the 4.0L.
- Start-Up: Listen for unusual noises (knocks, ticks, squeals). A slight "lifter tick" is common but shouldn’t be excessive.
- Exhaust: Check for smoke (blue=oil, white=coolant, black=fuel).
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Transmission (AW4 Automatic / AX15 Manual):
- Automatic: Shifts should be smooth and predictable, without harsh jerks or slipping. Check fluid color (should be red, not brown or burnt).
- Manual (Rarer): Clutch should engage smoothly, and gears shouldn’t grind.
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Transfer Case (NP231/NP242):
- Engage 2WD, 4-High, and 4-Low. Listen for grinding or clunking. Ensure it shifts into all modes correctly. The NP242 (Selec-Trac) offers a full-time 4WD option, while the NP231 (Command-Trac) is part-time.
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Rust (The XJ Killer): This is the most critical inspection point for a unibody vehicle.
- Frame Rails: Inspect the "frame" rails (subframe) underneath, especially near the control arm mounts and rear leaf spring mounts.
- Floorboards: Check under the carpet for soft spots or holes.
- Rocker Panels: These are highly prone to rust.
- Rear Quarter Panels: Above the wheel wells.
- Door Sills and Hatch: Check for bubbling paint or perforations.
- Bring a small magnet to check for bondo over rust spots.
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Suspension and Steering:
- Look for aftermarket lift kits. Are they installed correctly? Are the components (shocks, springs, control arms) in good condition?
- Check for worn bushings, especially on the control arms and sway bars.
- Inspect steering components: tie rod ends, drag link, track bar. Excessive play in the steering wheel or "death wobble" can indicate worn parts.
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Interior and Electronics:
- Test all power windows, locks, and mirrors. These are common failure points.
- Check AC and heater functionality.
- Ensure all gauges work.
- Look for water leaks (damp carpets, musty smell).
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Tires and Wheels:
- Check tread depth and even wear. Uneven wear can indicate alignment issues or worn suspension components.
- Ensure tires are appropriate for any lift installed.
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Modifications: Be wary of poorly executed modifications. While some mods are desirable, a "hacked" lift or electrical nightmare can be more trouble than it’s worth.
Communicating and Inspecting: From Inquiry to Test Drive
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Initial Contact: Be polite and specific. Ask about:
- Current mileage.
- Known mechanical issues or quirks.
- Recent maintenance (what’s been done, when).
- Reason for selling.
- Any accidents or major bodywork.
- Does it have a clear title in their name?
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Setting Up a Meeting:
- Always meet in a well-lit, public place during daylight hours.
- Bring a friend or family member for safety and an extra set of eyes.
- If possible, meet at the seller’s home to get a sense of how they care for their property (and potentially their vehicle).
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The Physical Inspection: Take your time. Don’t feel rushed. Use your checklist. Bring a flashlight, a magnet, and ideally, an OBD2 scanner to check for trouble codes.
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The Test Drive:
- Drive on various road types: smooth pavement, bumpy roads, highway.
- Listen for unusual noises (clunks, squeaks, grinding, hums).
- Test brakes: ensure they’re firm and stop the vehicle straight.
- Check steering: should be responsive, not loose or wandering.
- Test 4WD in a safe, open area if possible (e.g., a dirt lot, not dry pavement in 4WD part-time).
- Ensure the engine reaches operating temperature and holds it.
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Professional Inspection (PPI): If you’re serious about a vehicle, always arrange for a pre-purchase inspection (PPI) by a trusted independent mechanic, ideally one familiar with Jeeps. This small investment can save you thousands in future repairs. The seller should agree to this if they’re legitimate.
Negotiation and Purchase: Sealing the Deal
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Pricing Research: Before negotiating, research similar 2000 Jeep Cherokees on Craigslist, Facebook Marketplace, and other classifieds. Consult Kelley Blue Book (KBB) or NADA Guides for general value ranges, but understand that Craigslist prices are often more fluid. Factor in the vehicle’s condition, mileage, 2WD/4WD, and any desirable modifications.
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Negotiation Tactics:
- Be polite and respectful.
- Base your offer on the vehicle’s condition and any issues identified during your inspection. Have repair estimates in mind.
- Don’t be afraid to walk away if the price isn’t right or the seller is unreasonable.
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Paperwork:
- Ensure the seller has a clear, physical title in their name, with no liens. Verify the VIN on the title matches the vehicle.
- Bill of Sale: Create a detailed bill of sale that includes the VIN, mileage, date, agreed-upon price, and "as-is" statement. Both parties should sign and keep a copy.
- Registration: Understand your local DMV requirements for title transfer and registration.
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Payment: Use a secure payment method. For larger amounts, a cashier’s check from a bank is generally safe. Avoid personal checks or large amounts of cash unless you’re comfortable with the risk. Never pay before you have the title in hand and are ready to take possession.
Estimated Price Table: 2000 Jeep Cherokee on Craigslist (USD)
Please note: Prices for a 2000 Jeep Cherokee on Craigslist are highly variable based on geographical location, overall condition, mileage, maintenance history, 2WD vs. 4WD, and any modifications. This table provides estimated ranges for different categories.
| Condition Category | Mileage Range (Approx.) | Key Features/Description