Used Jeep CJ Axles For Sale: Your Comprehensive Guide to Finding the Right Foundation

Used Jeep CJ Axles For Sale: Your Comprehensive Guide to Finding the Right Foundation jeeps.truckstrend.com

The iconic Jeep CJ, a symbol of rugged individualism and off-road prowess, continues to capture the hearts of enthusiasts worldwide. Whether you’re embarking on a meticulous restoration, planning a formidable off-road build, or simply need replacement parts to keep your vintage CJ on the trail, the availability of used axles is a cornerstone of the CJ aftermarket. Finding the right set of used Jeep CJ axles for sale can be the difference between a stalled project and a triumphant return to the dirt. This comprehensive guide will delve into everything you need to know about sourcing, inspecting, and understanding the vital components that connect your CJ to the ground.

Why Choose Used Jeep CJ Axles?

Used Jeep CJ Axles For Sale: Your Comprehensive Guide to Finding the Right Foundation

Opting for used axles isn’t just about saving money; it’s a strategic decision rooted in practicality, authenticity, and the unique challenges of maintaining an older vehicle.

• Cost-Effectiveness: This is arguably the most significant advantage. New aftermarket axle assemblies can cost thousands of dollars, making them prohibitive for many budget-conscious builders or those undertaking a restoration where originality is key. Used axles, even after potential rebuild costs, often offer substantial savings.
• Authenticity for Restorations: For purists aiming for a period-correct restoration, finding original equipment manufacturer (OEM) axles is paramount. Used axles provide the correct housing, casting numbers, and aesthetics that modern aftermarket units might lack.
• Upgrade Potential: Many CJ owners seek to upgrade their drivetrain for more demanding off-road conditions. For instance, swapping a stronger Dana 44 into a CJ-5 that originally came with a weaker Dana 30 or AMC 20 is a common and effective modification, and used axles are the perfect donor.
• Availability: While CJs are no longer in production, a vast number were manufactured. This means a relatively healthy supply of used parts, including axles, exists in the aftermarket. Finding brand-new, OEM replacement axles can be challenging, if not impossible, for some models.
• Customization Base: A used axle provides a solid foundation upon which to build. You can re-gear it for larger tires, install an aftermarket locker, upgrade to chromoly shafts, or convert to disc brakes – all while retaining the original housing.

Understanding Jeep CJ Axle Types

Before you start your search, it’s crucial to understand the different types of axles commonly found in Jeep CJs. Identification is key to ensuring compatibility and meeting your performance needs.

Front Axles:

• Dana 30: The most common front axle found in CJ-5, CJ-7, and CJ-8 models from the late 1970s through 1986. It’s a decent axle for stock or mildly modified CJs running up to 33-inch tires. Later models (1982-1986) featured a wider "wide-track" design, which is often desirable for stability. While generally robust, the Dana 30’s weakness lies in its small 27-spline inner and outer axle shafts and unit bearing hubs on later models. However, it’s highly upgradeable with chromoly shafts, stronger U-joints, and aftermarket lockers.
• Dana 44: A much rarer and highly sought-after front axle for CJs. Primarily found in 1974-1975 CJ-5s and some very late production CJ-7s and Scramblers (CJ-8) as part of specific packages. This axle is significantly stronger than the Dana 30, featuring larger ring and pinion gears and often 30-spline axle shafts. If you find a front Dana 44 from a CJ, it’s usually considered a premium find for an upgrade.

Rear Axles:

• Dana 30: Very rarely used as a rear axle, typically only found in some early 1970s CJ-5s. It’s generally considered too weak for anything but light duty.
• AMC 20: The workhorse rear axle for most CJ-5, CJ-7, and CJ-8 models from the late 1970s through 1986. While ubiquitous, the AMC 20 has a reputation for being the weakest link in the CJ drivetrain. Its primary weaknesses are the two-piece axle shafts (prone to twisting and bearing failure) and thin axle tubes that can bend or "peel" at the differential housing. However, it’s incredibly common and easily upgraded with one-piece chromoly axle shafts and axle tube trusses to significantly improve its strength.
• Dana 44: The most desirable rear axle for a CJ. It was an optional upgrade on some 1976-1986 CJ-7 and CJ-8 models, often paired with the "Trac-Lok" limited-slip differential. The Dana 44 offers superior strength with a larger ring and pinion, larger axle shafts (typically 30-spline), and a more robust housing. If you’re building a serious off-roader, a rear Dana 44 is an excellent foundation.

Key Identification Features:

• Differential Cover Shape: The easiest way to identify axles. Dana axles typically have an oval-shaped cover with a distinct bolt pattern (e.g., Dana 30/44 have 10 bolts, AMC 20 has 12 bolts in a specific pattern).
• Housing Shape: Dana axles have a more rounded, symmetrical pumpkin. The AMC 20 has a more square-ish, somewhat asymmetrical housing.
• Spring Perches: Pay attention to the spring perch width and design. CJ axles use leaf springs. If you’re swapping axles from another vehicle (e.g., Cherokee, Wrangler), you’ll likely need to cut off and re-weld spring perches to match your CJ’s width.
• Bolt Pattern: All CJ axles use a 5-on-5.5-inch wheel bolt pattern.

Where to Find Used Jeep CJ Axles For Sale

The hunt for used axles can be an adventure in itself. Knowing where to look increases your chances of success.

• Online Marketplaces:
  • Craigslist/Facebook Marketplace: Excellent for local finds, allowing you to inspect the item in person and avoid shipping costs. Use specific search terms like "Jeep CJ Dana 30 axle," "AMC 20," or "CJ-7 axle."
  • eBay: Offers a wider geographical reach, but shipping heavy axles can be expensive. Be wary of sellers with poor ratings and always ask for detailed photos and descriptions.
  • Dedicated Jeep Forums/Groups: Many online Jeep communities have "For Sale" sections. These often connect you with knowledgeable sellers who understand what they’re selling.
• Salvage Yards/Junk Yards: Often called "auto recyclers," these are prime locations for finding complete donor vehicles. You can often pull the axles yourself, saving labor costs, and inspect them thoroughly on site.
• Specialized Jeep Part Dealers/Wreckers: Some businesses specialize in dismantling Jeeps and selling used parts. While prices might be higher, they often offer better quality control, cleaned parts, and sometimes even rebuilt components.
• Off-Road Events/Swap Meets: These events are treasure troves for unique parts and often allow for direct negotiation with sellers.

What to Inspect Before Buying Used CJ Axles

Buying used parts always carries some risk. A thorough inspection can mitigate potential headaches and ensure you’re getting a usable component.

• Visual Inspection for Damage:
  • Rust: Surface rust is common and usually cosmetic. Deep, pitting rust, especially around welds or mounting points, indicates severe corrosion and should be avoided.
  • Cracks: Look for cracks on the housing, around welds, spring perches, and shock mounts. Cracks often indicate severe stress or impact damage.
  • Bends/Impact Damage: Check the axle tubes for straightness. A bent tube is a major red flag and usually renders the axle useless without expensive repair. Look for signs of impact on the differential housing.
• Housing Integrity: While difficult without specialized tools, try to visually assess if the axle housing appears straight. A string line from hub to hub can give a rough idea.
• Axle Shafts: If visible, check the splines for twisting or wear. Look for any bends in the shafts themselves.
• Differential:
  • Leaks: Check for fluid leaks around the pinion seal and differential cover. Minor leaks might just be a seal, but major leaks could indicate bearing issues.
  • Play: If possible, try to turn the pinion yoke and feel for excessive play or clunking, which could indicate worn pinion or carrier bearings.
  • Fluid: If the seller allows, remove the differential cover (or check the fill plug) and inspect the fluid. Metal shavings in the fluid are a sign of internal gear or bearing damage.
• Brakes: Don’t expect much from used brakes. Assume you’ll need to replace rotors/drums, pads/shoes, calipers/wheel cylinders, and brake lines. Inspect the backing plates for severe rust or damage.
• Gear Ratio: Ask the seller for the gear ratio. If buying a pair, ensure they match. If unsure, you’ll need to visually inspect the gears or count teeth once purchased.
• Lockers/LSDs: Ask if any aftermarket limited-slip differentials (LSDs) or lockers are installed. This can significantly add value.
• Bearing Surfaces: Check the spindle bearing surfaces for pitting or wear, especially on front axles.
• Mounting Points: Ensure spring perches, shock mounts, and any other brackets are intact and not severely rusted or bent.

Installation and Post-Purchase Considerations

Buying the axle is just the first step. Proper preparation and installation are crucial for longevity and performance.

• Thorough Cleaning and Inspection: Before installation, completely strip and clean the axle housing. Sandblast or wire-wheel off rust and old paint. This allows for a final, detailed inspection for any missed damage.
• Bearing and Seal Replacement: It is highly recommended to replace all wheel bearings, pinion bearings, carrier bearings, and all seals (axle seals, pinion seal) before installation. This prevents immediate failures and ensures reliability.
• Brake Overhaul: Assume you will need to completely overhaul the brake system on the axle. New components are cheap insurance.
• Gear Ratio Matching: If you’re only replacing one axle, ensure the new axle’s gear ratio matches your existing axle. Mismatched ratios will destroy your transfer case. If changing tire size significantly, consider re-gearing both axles for optimal performance and fuel economy.
• Fluid Type: Use the correct type and amount of differential fluid.
• Professional Help: If you’re uncomfortable setting up gears, installing lockers, or performing major axle repairs, consult a professional off-road shop or mechanic. Gear setup is a precise process that requires specialized tools and expertise.

Potential Challenges and Solutions

• Severe Rust/Corrosion: If the housing is deeply pitted or compromised, it’s usually not worth the effort or cost to salvage. Solution: Keep looking.
• Bent Housing: A bent axle tube is extremely difficult and expensive to repair correctly. Solution: Avoid at all costs.
• Incorrect Gear Ratio: If you buy an axle and the ratio is wrong, you’ll either need to re-gear it (costly, requiring new gears and professional setup) or find another axle with the correct ratio. Solution: Confirm the ratio before purchase.
• High Shipping Costs: Axles are heavy and bulky. Shipping can be as much as the axle itself. Solution: Prioritize local pickup.
• Identifying the Axle: Sometimes sellers don’t know exactly what they have. Solution: Learn the visual identification cues and ask for specific photos of the differential cover and casting numbers.

Estimated Price Guide for Used Jeep CJ Axles

Prices for used CJ axles vary widely based on condition, type, gear ratio, and geographic location. This table provides a general estimate for a single axle (front or rear). A complete, matching pair (front and rear) will typically command a higher combined price.

Axle Type	Condition (Description)	Estimated Price Range (USD)	Notes
Dana 30 Front	Core / Scrap (Bent, major rust, internal damage)	$50 – $150	Suitable only for parts or extreme rebuilds.
	Usable (Straight housing, needs full rebuild)	$200 – $400	Common find. Expect to replace all bearings, seals, brakes. Good for mild upgrades.
	Good Condition (Straight, minor rust, possibly gears)	$450 – $700	Less common. Might have usable gears/carrier, still recommend new bearings/seals.
AMC 20 Rear	Core / Scrap (Bent tubes, damaged housing, severe rust)	$50 – $150	Useful only for differential components if intact.
	Usable (Straight housing, 2-piece shafts, needs rebuild)	$150 – $350	Most common. Factor in cost for 1-piece axle shaft upgrade, truss, bearings, seals, brakes.
	Good Condition (Straight, 1-piece shafts, minor rust)	$400 – $650	Desirable. The 1-piece shaft upgrade adds significant value. Still plan for bearings/seals/brakes.
Dana 44 Rear	Core / Scrap (Damaged housing, major rust)	$200 – $400	Rare to find in this condition.
	Usable (Straight housing, needs rebuild)	$500 – $900	Sought after. Expect to replace bearings, seals, brakes.
	Good Condition (Straight, minor rust, possibly Trac-Lok)	$1,000 – $1,500+	Premium find. If it includes a functioning Trac-Lok or aftermarket locker, price will be at the higher end.
Dana 44 Front	Core / Scrap (Damaged housing, major rust)	$300 – $500	Extremely rare.
	Usable (Straight housing, needs rebuild)	$800 – $1,500	Highly prized. Expect full rebuild costs.
	Good Condition (Straight, minor rust, desirable ratio)	$1,500 – $2,500+	The holy grail for CJ front axles. Price reflects rarity and strength.

Note: Prices are estimates and can fluctuate based on market demand, seller’s urgency, included components (e.g., disc brakes, lockers), and regional availability.

Conclusion

Finding used Jeep CJ axles for sale is a crucial step for many CJ enthusiasts, offering a blend of affordability, authenticity, and a solid foundation for customization. While the process requires diligent research and careful inspection, the rewards are immense. By understanding the different axle types, knowing where to search, and meticulously inspecting potential purchases, you can confidently acquire the right components to breathe new life into your beloved CJ. With a little elbow grease and the right parts, your vintage Jeep will be ready to tackle trails and turn heads for years to come, a testament to its enduring legacy.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)

Q: What’s the difference between wide-track and narrow-track CJ axles?
A: "Narrow-track" axles (found on early CJ-5s and some early CJ-7s) have a width of approximately 51.5 inches (front) and 50 inches (rear) WMS (Wheel Mounting Surface) to WMS. "Wide-track" axles (common on 1982-1986 CJ-7s and all CJ-8s) are wider, typically around 56 inches WMS. The wider stance improves stability, especially with taller lifts and larger tires.

Q: Can I put a Dana 44 from a different Jeep (e.g., XJ, TJ, YJ) into my CJ?
A: Yes, it’s possible, but it’s not a direct bolt-in. Axles from other Jeep models will have different widths, spring perch locations (coil spring vs. leaf spring), and potentially different bolt patterns. You’ll need to cut off and re-weld spring perches, possibly shorten the axle, and address brake compatibility. This is a common modification for advanced builders but requires significant fabrication.

Q: Do used axles come with brakes?
A: Often, yes, they will come with the original drum or disc brake components. However, assume these components are worn out and will need to be replaced entirely (new pads/shoes, rotors/drums, calipers/wheel cylinders, and hardware kits).

Q: How do I know the gear ratio of a used axle?
A: The most reliable way is to open the differential cover and count the teeth on the ring gear and the pinion gear (Ring Gear Teeth / Pinion Gear Teeth = Ratio). Alternatively, you can rotate the pinion yoke and count how many times the axle shaft rotates for one full rotation of the pinion (e.g., 3.73 rotations of the shaft for one pinion rotation indicates a 3.73:1 ratio). Some axles may have a tag on the differential cover with the ratio stamped on it, but these tags are often missing or incorrect.

Q: Is it worth rebuilding a used axle?
A: Absolutely, in most cases. As long as the axle housing is straight and free of major cracks or rust, rebuilding with new bearings, seals, and potentially stronger shafts or a locker is a very cost-effective way to get a strong, reliable axle for your CJ compared to buying new.

Q: What’s the AMC 20 "weak link"?
A: The primary weak links of the AMC 20 are its two-piece axle shafts, which are prone to twisting and bearing failure, and its relatively thin axle tubes, which can bend or "peel" at the differential housing under stress. These issues are commonly addressed by upgrading to one-piece chromoly axle shafts and installing an axle tube truss.